SUMMARY: We went to the Harquahala Mountain Smithsonian Observatory.

Friday, January 23rd: A group of DEs (Neal & Marian, Sonny & Jean, Bill & Barbara) went on a trip that seemed too rough for us. So we went with a group of MOEs (Dick & Connie, Dan with Buddy, Jim & Jeannie, Homer, Marilyn with son Mike, Ed & Maxine) to the Harquahala Peak Smithsonian Observatory which is located on top of the Harquahala Mountain. Dan led the group, with Dan as tail sweep, 70 miles east on Hwy 10 (exit 69) to the Harquahala Mountain. Harquahala Mountain is the highest point in southwestern Arizona at 5,681 feet. This 10.5 mile byway was constructed for mining access over a span of 70 years and reached the summit in 1981. The name Harquahala comes from the Native American words "Aha qua hala", meaning "water there is, high up", due to the numerous springs that were present at the higher elevations.

A unique piece of history sits atop Harquahala Mountain. In the early 1920's, the Smithsonian Institution built and operated an observatory station to collect solar data for potential use in forecasting climatic events. The two-story observatory was constructed of adobe and completed in August 1920. Several amenities were added later. Harsh weather conditons consistently posed problems for the scientists. The observatory was abandoned in 1925 and everything was moved to Table Mountain in California. During it's five year operation, nine individuals lived, worked, and sacrificed in this harsh and unforgiving environment all in the name of science. In the early 1920's, the only route to the top of the mountain was a rugged pack trail on the northwest slope of Harquahala Mountain. The observatory scientists and their pack animals had to carry everything up the mountain! The 5.4 mile pack trail is steep and challenging with a 3,360 elevation change.

Most of our trip was major highway (Hwy 10) or well maintained gravel roads. However, the last 10 miles were a lot more fun!!! The Harquahala Mountain Back Country Byway is 10.5 miles and climbs over 3,800 feet in elevation. Four-wheel drive is required!! The road is narrow and very steep in places. Ed and Maxine had trouble with their Tracker. It didn't seem to be going into 4WD. They started having trouble on the steeper hills and eventually they left it behind and rode with Mike and his mother Marilyn.

In the late 1800's, Dr. Samuel Peirpont Langley believed the sun caused changes in the climate of the earth. He thought that by measuring these changes (dubbed the "solar effect", scientists could predict climatic events. Dr. Charles G. Abbot, Langley's protege, embraced his theory. Dr. Abbot saw this mountaintop as a place for high visibility, clear weather, and a remote location required for this endeavor.

No telescopes were used here. First, a coelostat reflected sunbeams into the observing chamber. A theodolite was then used to measure the sun's altitude above the horizon; a pyranometer measured heat from the atmosphere around the sun; and two pyrheliometers measured heat from both the sun's direct rays and scattered rays. Readings from these instruments supported primary data taken from a specrometer-bolometer, which in turn reflected light onto a bolograph, a photographic plate. The scientists would then spend many hours gathering these measurements and mathematically calculating the data by hand. Reports were sent to the Smithsonian Institution in Washington, D.C. so that data from remote observation stations around the world could be compared.

In the early 1920's this mountaintop must have seemed like the end of the earth. Resourcefulness was critical for the scientists to live and work so far from civilization. Solving the basic questions of where to get food and water was the most important task. Survivng the severe conditions required fortitude and a strong will to overcome adversity. The scientists hauled food, water, supplies and equipment up the mountain weekly on pack animals. The closest water source was located over a mile away and 1,000 feet below the summit. Many times the scientists had to haul it up themselves! Cisterns were soon constructed to collect rain water which they called the "Mt. Harqua Hala Water Works". The building was designed to serve the needs of the observers and the equipment. The upper level served as kitchen, office, and sleeping quarters, and the lower level housed the delicate equipment.

The job description must have looked something like this: "WANTED - Hardy and resourceful individuals to live and work at a remote mountain top observation station. Qualified individuals will be expected to perform scientific studies and provide carpentry and handyman skills to build and maintain remote facilities. Applicants must be in excellent physical condition to carry heavy equiipment, supplies and water up a steep, five mile pack trail."

Who would bring a new bride to a remote place like the Harauahala Peak Smithsonian Observatory? Newlywed Alfred Moore! Alfred, the observatory field station manager, brought his new bride, Chella, to live on top of the mountain from 1921-1925. It was Chella's presence that brought most of the amenities to the station. Alfred wanted to make things as "cozy as possible for her". Upon arrival, he set to work building amenities like a shower, metal siding, porches, a water collection system, and a workshop. His most ambitious projects include the installation of a Kelvinator refrigerator, a wireless radio receiver, and a telephone. One of the few amenities that has survived is a croquet court! They grew "tired of playing horseshoes for out-of-door exercise" so Chella's brother gave her a croquet set for her birthday in 1921. Just imagine playing croquet here with Chella and Alfred in 1922 with this beautiful view around you.

How did the scientists communicate with the outside world? Initially, they sent messages via heliograph which required reflecting Morse code signals on mirrors. This technique was very time consuming; at nighttime and on cloudy days, messages were only possible with a bright light. There had to be a better way. Wireless radio was tried next to send telegrams to the local town. The tall aerials were difficult to keep erect in windy conditions, and faulty equipment kept it from working effectively. Eventually the radio was used as a receiver to listen to national broadcasts, but communications were still needed. A telephone was the answer but required the installation of large amounts of wire over very rough terrain. Wire was laid by the scientists across large boulders and saguaros down the north slope to the garage. The long awaited telephone finally became reality. Today, the summit remains essential for communications. Modern microwave facilities were built in 1983 by the Central Arizona Project (CAP) to direct water flow in the CAP canals located throughout central Arizona.

This was a really fun road!!! There were definitely some steep areas. They registered at least 20 degrees on our new "pucker meter". I ran out of floor in 4H 1st gear on one hill and had to change to 4L 1st "on the fly". Then, no problemo!!!

It was overcast and it started drizzling on us as we went down. We couldn't see very far in the distance and there was no sun, but there were beautiful views, especially in this one area with a huge "cholla garden".